Oh The Things I've Seen

The great thing about living in another country is being able to see another culture and how they live their lives.  Here are just some of the small things I have seen, heard and observed...none of them terribly important, but interesting nonetheless:

Wheelbarrows.  I have mentioned the plethora of kids that are running around here, but what I didn't mention is that many of them work their fannies off.  It is almost as if the career years are from eight to fifteen and after that you get married and have ten kids.  So there are some hard working kids all throughout the province, and most of them have wheelbarrows.  I have never seen so many stinking wheelbarrows in one place.  Of course, it makes sense...they are cheap and can be handled fairly easy by an eight year old depending on the load.  Those that don't have a wheelbarrow must be saving up because they end up using their backs to haul everything, whether it be crops (cornstalks, hay, wheat, etc) or bags of rice or potatoes or fruit.  The girls don't use wheelbarrows or their backs.  Instead, they use their heads...literally.  The girls can be found carrying bundles on their heads.  I'm not sure what is in those bundles but I assume it is foodstuff.  Yes, the kids are resilient.  Whether they are in the fields or downtown, they are working...usually with wheelbarrows.

Touchy, feely.  The Afghan people are very touchy, meaning there is much hugging and hand holding, particularly among the men.  To see men, even soldiers or police, holding hands is common.  Greetings range from shaking hands to each person placing their hand on the other's heart to full out bro hugs with a double tap.  The strangest thing I saw was when we were sitting in a district center with a group of district elders.  They were all white beards who had seen many years of war and conflict (which I know is slightly redundant, but when there wasn't war there was still conflict.  For the most part, Afghans wear sandals, and they take them off prior to entering a building, similar to the Japanese custom.  One of the elders was sitting with his left leg resting on his right knee.  The elder next to him thought it appropriate to rest his hand on the other man's bare foot...awkward.  It seemed normal to them as his hand was there for quite some time and the other man did not try to move his foot away from the elder's grasp.   Hmmm

Speaking of feet.  This morning while I was in the restroom washing my hands the guy at the sink next to me was washing....his foot.  I was impressed with his dexterity as he was able to get his foot up there to rest on the sink so he could give it a good scrub.  Prior to prayer Muslims typically perform ablution (awdas in Pashto) which involves washing your face, ears, hands, arms and feet.  But, prayer time was not for a couple of hours.  Nope, he was just washing his foot.

Surreal moment of the year.  There is a radio in my restroom that is on 24 hours a day.  Normally it has Pashto programming, but sometimes in the middle of the night they will play English programs.  One night, half asleep as I finished my business and headed for the door.  As I walked out the door, the last thing I heard emanating from the radio was "Ladies and gentleman, it's the Jack Benny Show!"  Am I hear right now?

A Cat's Tale.  You can't have dogs and cats on the bases over here, mainly because they aren't vaccinated and often carry rabies.  A veterinary team was traveling from base to base to euthanize all dogs and cats for the protection of everyone on the base.  Evidently a soldier had been bitten by a dog on another base in Afghanistan and had not been properly treated.  He eventually died of rabies after returning to the states.  As luck would have it a very elusive cat had kittens under one of our buildings on base.  Just a few days before the vet was arriving I saw a couple of the kittens for the first time.  They were in a playful mood, chasing each other around just a few feet away.  Once we walked by, though, they scampered back to their hiding place.  One of the civilians working on base was a secret member of the Feline Liberation Front, putting food out for the kitties every day.  I asked him to stop and let him know their days were numbered.  The day the vets showed up though brought more surprises.  Once they were able to catch one and take a close look they determined that these were no ordinary cats.  In fact they were protected Afghan Jungle Cats, a funny name since there isn't a jungle to be found in Afghanistan (which may explain why they are endangered).  So, the vets left, the kitties lived and the Feline Liberation Front claimed a huge victory.

Recall specials.  Remember when Toyota had to recall all those cars when they were accelerating by themselves?  I found out what they did with all them...they are here in Afghanistan.  Okay, maybe not, but there are more Toyota Corollas here then in Tokyo.  Somebody at Toyota was a genius when they cornered the market on white Corollas right here in Kunar.  It is humorous when they tell us to look out for a suspicious white Toyota Corolla...that's like saying "look out for a suspicious wheelbarrow pushed by an eight year old kid."

More later...time for bed.

Never Forget

As a very long ten year anniversary of 9/11 comes to a close in Afghanistan, I find myself still in the office, finishing up five or six issues all at the same time, while trying to keep tabs on the football scores back home.  I am a bit out of uniform as I sit here in my uniform trousers (yes, we call them trousers) and my NYPD "Gone But Not Forgotten" shirt that was given to me by Paul McMahon of the 46th Precinct in the Bronx.  I have had it for nine years and I wear it without fail every 9/11. Today I flew a US Flag on our flagpole and will send it to Paul and his precinct as a gesture of thanks and remembrance.  We had a small ceremony this morning to start the day.  It actually went very well.  I gave a little speech that I thought about and thought about for weeks and then sat down an hour before the event and just kind of threw stuff on the paper.  I have perfected the art of procrastination.  Shortly after the ceremony, one of the guys I am closest to on the team became sick and had to be flown to a larger base to be evaluated.  So I spent the entire morning in medical with him making sure he was getting good care (as always he received excellent care as our doctors, medics and corpsmen are the best).  I walked him out to the helicopter that took him away.  Looks like he will receive some treatment and be back within the week.  In the afternoon my body told me to take a break, so I did.  Of course that just put me behind, so here I sit as the last few minutes of the day wind down.  I thought I would put the content of my speech...I suppose it is a cheap way to have a long post so it looks like I worked really hard on this.  Anyway, here it is:  

Ten years….at first glance it would seem that no one in this room would ever need reminding of why we are here and what circumstances brought us to eastern Afghanistan.  But, ten years we have been at this which means that ten years ago some of you were more concerned about getting through sixth grade and moving on to middle school.  For others, Afghanistan was just that place that had outlasted the Soviets, sending them home with their tails between their legs.  But the theme has been since ten years ago today, “never forget.”  Time can place scar tissue over deep wounds and turn memories hazy. Enduring the daily grind here in Kunar can fog the purpose of our presence as people concentrate on getting home and just getting through the deployment.  Never forget that Afghanistan was a safe haven for Al Qaeda, allowing them to train and plan for and execute the events that took place ten years ago.  Never forget that ten years ago almost 3000 people died senselessly on American soil and that since then another 1800 have given the ultimate sacrifice.  Never forget that the mission is to build the capacity of the Afghan government so they can stand united against the Taliban and against Al Qaeda so that this country never again becomes the training ground for an event such as 9/11.  It is a difficult task to stay focused and ready   24 hours a day week after week and month after month, but that is what we have been charged with and that is what we have to accomplish.  Never forget that every person in this room and every person on this base, military and civilian from E1 to O6 has an integral part to play.  Whatever your part is, always ensure you strive to be the best at that task because it may come to pass that we all have to rely on you in the hour of need.   I had the opportunity to chat with my mom yesterday on Facebook and I asked her what she planned to do today.  Her response was:

 “Just church, staying cool watching TV and crying a whole lot…It is a horrendous day to remember. We have one flag flying and their will be many prayers said for the people of that day and all of you men and women over there.”

My mom’s thoughts are even more poignant when you realize that her generation was forced to experience two events similar in nature, as she still remembers Pearl Harbor and having a brother stationed on one of the ships in Hawaii on 7 December 1941.  Today and long after we have departed we must strive to ensure our generations do not have to experience another Pearl Harbor or 9/11 and watch as our sons and daughters or grandchildren are forced to go to war once again. 

Everyone handles the memory of that day ten years ago differently, and that is why we have chosen to make this entire day a day to not only reflect but to look ahead.  I will tell you that I have seen the resolve and the commitment to making Afghanistan a secure and stable country in many of the Afghans that I interact with every day.  Yes, there are still plenty of bad guys out there, and there are still those that just do not get it.  But there are also those who do get it and who are dedicating their lives to a peaceful Afghanistan.  So, today, I will reflect on the events of that day ten years ago and the course this effort has taken over time.  But I am also looking ahead at the work in front of us and I know we can achieve this mission.  For those who are getting ready to return to their lives in the states, I thank you for your service and your sacrifice and I pledge to you that what you did here had an extremely positive effect on the final outcome and those of us who will be here a bit longer will continue to fight the good fight as you have done for so long.

For the last few days I struggled with what I wanted to say today, because I feel this is such an important day to remember.  This morning as I stepped outside for the first time, I was struck by how still the air was and how the temperature was just right.  It is a beautiful morning, in a way that only  Kunar can be beautiful.  The beauty of this place calls to you and entices you to let your guard down.  But behind the veil of natural beauty, we must never forget the threat that hides behind that veil.  I was drawn towards the flight line as I wandered this morning and I looked at the sign that proclaimed this base in honor of Sergeant Jeremy Wright.  I felt a bit guilty that I knew absolutely nothing about this man for whom our base is named.  So I figured it was appropriate that, on a day of remembrance and on a day where our gym will be dedicated in honor of Corporal Arruda, I would find out who he was.  Jeremy Wright was a talented runner, in fact he was an All-American from Wabash College prior to joining the Army and becoming a Green Beret.  He had traveled around the world when he ran competitively and he knew that he owed his country for the wonderful gifts he possessed as an American.  Similar to Corporal Arruda, he was killed by an IED on 3 January 2005.  I found a tribute page for Sergeant Wright and wanted to share a couple of passages:  This first passage is from one of his Army buddies.

Its been nearly 3 1/2 years and I still see you smiling up at me and giving me the thumbs up as we started to roll out that morning. Man was it cold.

I always thought I was self-motivated and 'gung ho' but you showed me the true meaning of motivation. Remember that morning that Dave and I were outside stretching for a run and slowly talking each other out of it because it was cold and raining? You burst out the door and just started running towards Bull Run. Thats all it took, Dave and I looked at each other and started running; all excuses gone. That mountain was a beast and you nearly killed Dave and I just trying to keep you in sight.

But more than just exercise, you were probably the hardest working individual I ever met. No matter how late I thought it was when I finished in the toc, you were almost always still there or in the team hut still plugging away at something. You taught me alot, even if you didn't realize it, and I will always appreciate that. When James says 'You were the best of us' he doesn't just mean the Team. You were the best man in the whole Group.

I hope you are well buddy."

This second passage is from his sister, who writes on the website quite regularly:

As the 10th anniversary of 9/11 comes in the next couple of hours, I think of you with not only sadness for everything that we've missed not having you here for the last 6 years, but also filled with pride. I am proud of the sacrifices you made as an individual. You stopped everything in your life...your running...your career dreams and goals...to serve our country...to help keep us safe. And that's how you died. Protecting us. Protecting those with you that day. Protecting the innocent, helpless people in Afghanistan. I know you are with each of us...and I know that you will watch over your new little niece or nephew once October arrives. That baby is going to have the best guardian angel that could ever be sent. We love you and miss you as much today as we did the day you left. Never forget that! Hug dad and grandpa for me...xoxoxo"

Lori and Macy of Indiana

For those of us who are here to carry the torch of this effort, we must never forget the sacrifice of those like Sergeant Jeremy Wright, Corporal Raphael Arruda, and especially today, the 2977 victims of 9/11.  On this day, ten years after that tragic day, there is absolutely no other place in the world I would rather be than right here with all of you, serving in the greatest military of the greatest nation on earth.  I am proud, honored and humbled to serve with you and I thank all of you for what you do each and every day.  Never forget, God bless you and God bless America. 

The Best Kept Secret in Afghanistan

Whenever I meet a visitor to Forward Operating Base (FOB) Wright I always tell them "Welcome to the best kept secret in Afghanistan.  If you have to be in Afghanistan and you have to live on a FOB, this is the place to be.  Not just because it is in a pretty spectacular setting, nestled between large mountains and hills at the base of the Hindu Kush mountain range.  Not only because the surging Kunar River turns the valley into one of the greener spots in the country.  But also because FOB Wright may have the best dining facility around.  It is not large like some of the other bases where you have to weave around the maze of tables to try and find an open seat among the crowds of soldiers and civilian contractors.  No you can always find a seat and you are always going to get great food.  We always have fresh vegetables and fruit and a wide variety of water, soda, gatorade and energy drinks (which I stay away from).  Desserts are plentiful including hard packed ice cream for lunch and dinner (bad news).  Plus, the dining facility, or Dfac as it is referred to, is in a real building instead of a tent like many FOBs around here.  So it offers a pleasant setting for starting the day or winding down after a long hot mission.  The Dfac also provides an excellent way to watch the weeks melt away as the daily meal choices roll by.  Tuesday is Italian...spaghetti or lasagna every Tuesday.  Wednesday is Mexican night.  Friday is surf and turf.  It actually has pizza every couple of weeks, which is too bad because they actually prepare a mean pizza.   A couple of nights a week they also offer mongolian stir fry.  As the days roll by it is always good to see Italian night roll by.  Tuesday is the day that has become a kind of mile marker.  When you run a marathon, you search longingly in the distance for the next mile marker, knowing when you see it you are that much closer to the finish line.  Italian night on Tuesdays is my mile marker that tells me I am that much closer to the finish line...that much closer to home.  Of course, the markers are still in the low numbers...we are nowhere near the 26.2 mark.  But the days will continue to roll by and I will look for that pasta each Tuesday and know eventually we will say our farewells to the best kept secret in Afghanistan.